*Directions: Mix all of the ingredients together. Shake and use.

This type of formula dates back to the 15th century. Reportedly, thieves covered themselves in something similar so they could steal from plague victims and dead bodies without catching the disease. Independent lab tests of this oil blend shows a %90 kill rate on micrococcus luteus within 12 minute diffusion and a %99.3 reduction after 20 minutes. Pseudomonas aeruginosa – a major agent of nosocomial infection, showed %99.96 kill rate after 12 minutes of diffusion.

With this formula, you’ll need to shake the bottle each and every time you use it because essential oils and water don’t naturally mix. Cinnamon Essential Oil can be irritating to skin. If any irritation occurs, double the water (use 6 Tablespoons) to decrease irritation. If irritation continues, you can try switching  out the Cinnamon Leaf EO with Tea Tree Essential Oil, or try using a carrier oil instead of a water blend.

I generally make this formula using a light oil carrier, such as sunflower or evening primrose, instead of water/alcohol.  It blends better, but is a much heavier recipe and cannot be easily used in a spray bottle.

*Directions: Mix all of the ingredients together. Shake and use. Since Alcohol is a natural emulsifier, this recipe will turn white and not require shaking each and every time before use. Cinnamon Leaf Essential Oil can be irritating to skin. If any irritation occurs, double the liquid (use 6 Tablespoons) to decrease irritation. If irritation continues, switch out the Cinnamon Leaf Essential Oil with Tea Tree Essential Oil. This blend is based on the research in the Journal of Cranio-Maxillofacial Surgery (2009) available online at www.sciencedirect.com

*Directions: Mix all of the ingredients together. Shake and use. Can also be used on places like doorknobs, telephones and other common germ vector locations.

*Directions: Combine the lecithin and the essential oils together in a small container. Slowly pour the essential oil mixture into the aloe vera while stick blending the mixture. This will naturally help emulsify the mixture (think salad dressing). Lecithin is typically found in health food stores and is a natural emulsifier. This blend will be thick like lotion. Spray bottles won’t work with this formula.

Here are some great research links:  Fungus Killed by Essential Oils, Antimicrobial Essential Oils {PDF}, Antibacterial Soaps, Tea Tree oil antimicrobial, Tea Tree Oil & Fungus, Tea Tree Oil.

Also, I’ve started doing tech writing related blogging over at The Art of Documentation.  I’m still adding content to the “services” section of the site, but I think the rest is pretty much ready to roll.  Feel free to bang on it and tell me what you think!

However, repairing the damage is pretty simple.  Here’s the formula for the goo I’ve got sitting on my hair currently.

There’s been a lot of buzz about in the industry about Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract and Cecropia Obtusa Bark Extract. Argania is derived from the kernel of the fruit of the Argan tree, Argania spinosa, and native to southern Morocco. It tightens skin immediately and obviously. Cecropia has been shown in studies to reduce cellulite and tighten skin.

The supplies of these materials are limited, as they come from protected species, and all harvesting must be done sustainably and under strict control. The ingredients I’m using in the formula test come from Laboratoires Serobiologiques, via Cognis

I decided to make a mango eye butter.

Ingredients Phase One – %

Water – qs

Lecithin (emulsifier) – 1.5

Ingredients Phase Two

Mango butter – 5

Shea butter – 4

Hemp oil – 4

Palm oil – .5  (1/2)

Ingredients Phase Three

50% blend of water and Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract – 5

Cecropia Obtusa Bark Extract – 3

Procedure:

1. Disperse Lecithin into the water at 50°C with stirring. Mix homogenously.
2. Melt P2 to liquidity. Add into phase I while mixing until a uniform emulsion is formed.
3. Continue mixing until temp drops below 30°C.
4. Add phase III while stirring when temperature drop below 30°C.

The blend turned out nice and fluffy. It holds air well, keeping it from feeling as dense as butters tend to feel. Melts almostly instantly at skin temp, becoming an easy to apply oil/serum. The botanicals blend well, adding a slight coffee tint, and almost imperceptible aroma. I took some of the batch, added it back to the mixer and incorporated a small amount of lavender and ylang ylang essential oils, which rendered the aroma of the active botanicals invisible.

So, the botanicals work in formulations like I would expect something with their density and weight to behave. Now, only time will tell if they work as advertised. I’ll keep you posted.

Researchers from Hungry, Germany, and the United Kingdom have presented a paper which will be published in the October issue of the Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology (FASEB) journal that suggests that the human body produces endocannabinoid compounds that resemble the active ingredient in marijuana, THC.

Not only are they similar but they also play an important role in the maintenance of good looking skin.

“Just as THC is believed to protect the marijuana plant from pathogens, our own cannabinoids may be necessary for us to maintain healthy skin,” said researcher Gerald Weissmann.

The team of scientists said “endocannabinoids” are important in regulating lipid production and may therefore be useful in the management of problems such as acne and dry skin that are associated with sebaceous gland dysfunction. They hailed the paper as the first evidence that human sebocytes use an endogenous cannabinoid signaling system for the control of lipid production and death.

“Our preclinical data encourage one to explore whether endocannabinoid system-acting agents can be exploited in the management of common skin disorders,” said Tamás Biró, a senior scientist involved in the research. “It is also suggested that these agents can be efficiently applied locally to the skin in the form of a cream.”

As well as potentially leading to new drugs that treat skin conditions ranging from acne to dry skin, and even skin-related tumors, this study could lead to a greater use of hemp oil in cosmetic products.

Cannabis has already made its mark in the cosmetics industry especially as the natural and organic markets light up. Oil derived from the hemp plant is increasingly being used for its moisturizing properties in creams, cosmetics and deodorants. While it has traditionally been used only by artisan bath and cosmetics manufacturers, large corporations like Burt’s Bees have recently introduced hemp oil products.

Beauty entrepreneurs can submit innovative beauty products and ideas for consideration to become the next $100 million beauty brand.

The annual Breakthrough in Beauty search identifies the top innovative new beauty products in the world. After evaluating thousands of promising entries, the winner of the search receives an infusion of resources to vault the winning product from obscurity and into the mainstream.

Breakthrough in Beauty invests $3-5 million to launch the product to market, with an additional $50 million in advertising to secure its success.

“Breakthrough in Beauty represents a new, more personal era in beauty retailing,” explained Marina Randolph, Founder of Breakthrough in Beauty. “By continually searching for and accepting only the very best in undiscovered concepts, incubating them and providing them with growth opportunities and guidance, we enable innovators to thrive. Their products become irreplaceable and more importantly, accessible in woman’s lives.”

This year’s search emphasizes color cosmetics products. Products that feature advanced technology as well as anti aging benefits or a natural appeal are also being sought.  A panel of judges representing experts and leaders in the beauty industry will help evaluate submissions and select the final winner.

This year’s panel will feature a renowned color chemist, a top magazine beauty editor, a nationally recognized dermatologist and a world- class beauty branding expert.   All submissions will receive valuable feedback from the expert panelists on the products, which would typically only be available at a premium cost for consultation.

Product Partners Chairman and CEO Carl Daikeler explains the five key benefits of submitting a product proposal for consideration.

“Applicants’ business proposals will be analyzed by a panel of industry experts and will receive free feedback,” he says.  “Then, the winning entry will receive funding for product development and testing, as well as advertising and marketing support to create global brand awareness. And, the winning applicant will have the opportunity for endless earning potential.”

By submitting a product proposal, the expert panel of judges will analyze the plans, provide specific feedback on strengths and weaknesses, and work with applicants to improve plans.

Up and coming beauty visionaries can submit their products until August 30, 2008.

The following links all open PDF windows:

Product Submission Form

Application Form

FAQ

Jerome Chevalier, the former head of regulatory affairs for L’Oreal, claims that he was harassed and ultimately dismissed by L’Oreal USA after he complained about the company’s allegedly unlawful activities. According to Chevalier, products from the company’s Maybelline range containing dibutyl phthalate were being sold in South America, where the ingredient is banned. (Note that the US hasn’t banned it, nor has the FDA banned most of the other dangerous chemicals in American mass-market cosmetics. )

In addition, he claims that the company exported a hydroflourocarbon compound known as 152a to European markets – a move which was against its environmental policies. His suit also claims that the company’s ‘100 percent Pureology’ range labeled as vegan in fact contains a number of animal-derived ingredients.

After bringing these alleged discrepancies to the attention of the company’s management he claims he suffered harassment and was treated as a persona non grata.

In addition, the lawsuit details a final incident occurring shortly before Chevalier was dismissed where he objected to the use of the preservative Kathon CG (INCI names: Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone) at unlawfully high levels in products sold in Europe.

According to the EU Cosmetics Directive the substance can be used as a preservative as long as it doesn’t exceed 0.1 per cent. Chevalier was fired from the company in August 2007 and the lawsuit is claiming wrongful dismissal. In addition, the lawsuit claims that Chevalier was discriminated against because he is French, and that other French colleagues at L’Oreal USA were also harassed or given alternative positions in France.

In a statement L’Oreal USA said it has investigated the complaint and ‘unequivocally denies’ the allegations. Although the company does not comment on ongoing litigation it said it intends to ‘vigorously defend itself in this lawsuit’.

The company went on to assure the safety of all L’Oreal products.

“All the products marketed by the L’Oréal Group are in full compliance with FDA regulations as well as the European Union Cosmetic Directive and the requirements for safety in the more than 130 countries where its products are sold,” it said in the statement.

Chevalier and his lawyer refused to comment on the case.

For this recipe, I’m using ingredients that are pretty common, or easy to find in most areas. Essential oils can be found in small amounts at places like health food stores and craft stores often carry essentials and fragrances. Just make sure, if you buy fragrance oil, that you’re buying “body safe” oils and not stuff for candles.

So, let’s start with a basic recipe in two parts.

Dry ingredients:

• Baking Soda – 8 ounces
• Citric Acid – 4 ounces
• Corn Starch – 4 ounces
• Salts – 4 ounces ( in these pictures, I used Dead Sea Salts, but mineral salts work too, and are easier to find and significantly less expensive.)

Wet Ingredients:

• Water – .75 tbsp
• Essential or Fragrance Oil – 2 tsp (for these I used a Ginger Peach.)
• Oil – 2.5 tbsp (I used cherry kernel, but any light vegetable oil will work.)
• Food coloring – 1 or 2 drops. (Your color will look very dark in the emulsion, but will be light in the fizzies, so as to not leave rings around the tub. For this batch I used one drop red and two drops yellow. The final result will be very light peach.)

Step One:

Begin by putting all of your dry ingredients into a big bowl. Glass is best because it’s non-reactive. Whisk or pestle those pesky clumps out. You want a fairly smooth consistency throughout the entire mix.

Step Two: 

 Blend your wet ingredients together. I usually use a small jar and shake it up. Don’t worry about separation too much, you’re not going to get a full emulsion. Then, while whisking, slowly add small amounts of the liquid to your dry ingredients. Here we see my faithful Igor prepare to pour.

If the mixture starts to foam, you’re going too fast. Quickly whisk the reacting ingredients into the nonreactive part and you should be able to stop the reaction. I add about a teaspoon at a time. When all of the wet ingredients have been added, you should have a mixture with the consistency of slightly damp sand. It should clump together.

Step Three:

Once your mixture is together, you have a pretty limited amount of time in which to get it into molds. To create the giant Soapy Hollow ball of bath doom, I use round christmas tree ornaments that were designed to be filled with goodies. To do a three-dimensional bomb like these, you pack each side, then overfill a tad and the center and press the two sides together. It takes a little practice to get a feel for how much “filling” you need, so don’t get discouraged if your first couple fall apart. Here we see Igor holding a filled ball.

Step Four: 

You don’t need to leave them in the mold for very long, and in fact can tap them out as soon as you fill them. These are four bombs we made with this batch.

You can use all sorts of things to make your fizzies; muffin tins, ice cube trays, candy molds, Aunt Magnolia’s denture case…whatever makes you happy. This batch didn’t make quite enough for five bombs, and it started reacting, so I quickly stuffed what was left of the batch into my “bath cookies” mold. When using objects that surround the seltzer mix, the mix must stay in the object until dry, or it will crumble when you try to take it out. This is what the bath cookies look like after spending the night in the mold.

Step Five: 

Once they are completely dry, store bath bombs in an airtight container or bag. High humidity will make them activate. Because we used oil and water and no preservatives, you want to use them within about 6 months. Assuming you can keep them for that long. Igor demands payment in immediate fizzy baths, but you may have better luck actually getting to *use* yours.

When you’re ready to use one, just drop it into a warm bath, and relax.

The Discussion Draft of the Food and Drug Administration Globalization Act of 2008, introduced by US Representatives John Dingell (D-MI), Frank Pallone, Jr. (D-NJ 6th) and Bart Stupak (D-MI) is poised to radically change and possibly destroy the boutique bath and cosmetics industry.

It is important that consumers be protected, however the current proposals don’t do anything to solve problems like the ones I talked about here. They don’t address the thousands of known carcinogens that are in cosmetics produced by large conglomerate corporations . They don’t propose a budget to enforce the regulations that are already on the books.  They, in fact, do almost nothing to protect the consumer.

What they *do* is require is that anyone who wants to make soap or cosmetics pay a “registration fee” between $2,000 and $12,000 dollars annually. Additional registration fees are applied for those that import anything used in manufacturing, such as oils, fragrances or essential oils and hydrosols. The fees are subject to go up, as they’re a discretionary budget item, rather than a fixed cost item.  There is no difference in the fee structure between Palmolive and a hobbyist who sells her products at the church bazaar.

This legislation will require that every manufacturer have access to legal council that specializes in regulation compliance. As those attorneys generally come with $500 an hour price tags, the cost of translating the legislation will be enough to push most small companies out of business.

The legislation will require manufacturing facilities that are out of the reach of any company under a $10 million market cap. Laboratory and archival requirements add significant cost barriers to entry level or small businesses.

For those who practice aromatherapy using essential oils, the barrier is significantly higher because of those products will be classified as  “drugs”, which requires manufacturing facilities like those of the companies that produce insulin or other pharmaceuticals.  Micron level filtration is completely out of the reach of most soapmakers. And frankly, it’s an absurd requirement.  Nobody has ever died from dusty soap.

The legislation is well intended. Consumers do deserve to be protected. But *this* legislation is fails to consider small businesses, is completely unfunded, generates an extraordinary amount of required paperwork, and will dramatically decrease consumer options, as they’ll be left with virtually nothing but the petrochemical options offered by major cosmetic companies.

Fortunately, this bill is still in committee, and can be modified before it’s presented on the floor of Congress.  If you agree that the bill should have some provision to scale fees and requirements to meet business size, please take a few minutes to contact The House Committee on Energy and Commerce.

As well as producing, marketing and selling her soap, Elizabeth has also launched her own fragrance oil line, supplying other soapers and cosmetic companies, and Longcroft Soaperie has gotten big enough that she’s now got new digs overlooking the moors.  And if that weren’t enough, she’s also raising two kids, a host of critters, and maintaining an ancient farmstead as old as the heather.  So, a big thanks to Elizabeth for taking the time to answer a few questions for us.

I started out making and selling bath salts. From there I got into balms and butters which eventually led me into soap making. Since I already had an established cosmetics business, selling soap seemed like the next logical step – and it was. I have since scaled back on all of my products and make soaps and lip balms only.

The first selling I ever did was at a home-party hosted by my lovely sister-in-law. It was a big success for me at that time, and I started getting quite a few phone orders. I decided to try farmers’ markets, too, and those were a lot of fun. I used to do three a month, but now I only support one market.

Definitely the internet. Since getting a website in 2004, things have really taken off for me. It’s lead to interest from the press as well as some lucrative wholesale accounts.

‘Unmoderated’ craft fairs have always been a disaster for me. While my products are reasonably priced, I can’t compete with cheap toiletries imported from China. Before doing any craft fair or market, I always make sure that the organizers are strict about the products being sold. If the organizers don’t insist on all of the products being hand-made, I don’t attend.

I used to have a huge line of products, but I’ve cut way back due to time constraints. When deciding what to cut, I thought a lot about what I actually use – soap and lip balm. So now that’s all I make.

I try to pay attention to what’s selling, and there are some items (like cardamom soap) that are sold seasonally. I keep a basic line of about eight soaps and then add limited editions as needed.

Oh yes. Oil cleansers. I’ve been using the oil cleansing method for a couple of years, and am beyond pleased with the results, however, trying to talk my customers into using oil to clean their skin just didn’t work out. It was frustrating, because I knew they’d love it if they tried it, but I just didn’t have the ability to sell it. So my main question now is ‘will this be easy to sell’. If it isn’t, I don’t bother with it.

Oil Cleansing?  Like unto what the Romans used?  Tell us a little about it.

Ooh!  I was hoping you’d ask.  Oil cleansing is where you massage vegetable (or seed) oil onto your face to clean it.  The principle is the old chemistry of ‘like dissolves like’, and it works really well.  An effective oil cleanser will contain a base of castor oil, as it’s the most cleansing of all of the oils.  In that, you can add different oils depending on your skin type — or even your skin’s mood.  I know my skin is different from day to day and week to week, so it’s great to be able to mix something up to suit the moment.

A great recipe for normal to dry skin is:
50% Castor
25% Olive
25% Avocado

To use the cleanser, you wet your face with warm water and massage a small amount of oil into your skin.  I use less than a dime sized drop.  The massage is important, so use circular motions and never abuse the skin.  Let the oil sit on your skin for about 10 minutes and then place a warm wet cloth over your face to sort of steam the skin.  You can use the same cloth to remove the oil by gently wiping it away.

Avoid the temptation to dig at your skin with the cloth, and don’t rinse.  You’ll notice cleaner, clearer, glowing skin after the first use.

Q: Tell us about the genesis of your fragrance company.  What factors moved you towards creating your own line of fragrance oils?

There was a real gap in the UK market. When I first started out making bath salts, I couldn’t find quality fragrances. I began working directly with a manufacturer who helped me develop a few exclusive fragrances, and the products I made the new scents sold well.

Oh, by nose only! I am not a chemist. But I do have a decent sense of smell.

It’s a warehouse for storing the raw materials I sell through gracefruit.com. Nothing exciting, I’m afraid.

Complying with EU legislation. There is a lot of it. We have such strict laws here. For instance, every product we sell has to have its formulation assessed and approved by a cosmetic chemist. The process can be daunting. (Editorial note: Regulations in the US are about to become even more restrictive than the EU restrictions.  Look for an article about these regulations soon.)

Keeping up with all of the micro-soaperies opening every day. There is a lot of competition that wasn’t there a year ago.

Nothing for Longcroft, but I’ve recently begun working with a large medical-supplies manufacturer. Their goal is to get into the cosmetics market, and I’ve been doing some formulating for them. With a little luck, there will be a new line of balms on the supermarket shelves soon.

Elizabeth, that’s great news, I can’t wait to see what’s coming out of your formulations lab!  Thanks so much for taking the time to chat with Soapy Hollow and it’s readers.   We’ve been talking to Elizabeth Carnahan from Longcroft Soaperies, who offers a limited edition of her soaps and balms here, and operates Gracefruit.com which offers fragrance oils and raw materials.