Brad L. Graham

He was so young, vibrant, wonderful, and so beloved by everyone who ever came into contact with him. It is hardly a fair universe that takes people like Brad, when he did so much and was so important to so many people.

He was one of the original members of MetaFilter, and a heartbreaking memorial thread with links and stories provides a fine example of an online wake. I think Brad would have been pleased.

My deepest sympathies go out to his mother and to everyone who was touched by him.

Also, I’ve started doing tech writing related blogging over at The Art of Documentation.  I’m still adding content to the “services” section of the site, but I think the rest is pretty much ready to roll.  Feel free to bang on it and tell me what you think!

Instructables, the community craft blog of the handy set, has moved to a closed pay-only model, and the timer is ticking for legacy accounts. After 90 days from implementation rollover, people who do not pay for an Instructables “Pro” account will have their accounts “crippled”. Non-paying accounts will no longer be able to view entire instructables at once, print out projects or get a PDF, have a “favorites” list, and most perniciously, people won’t be able to view “secondary” images in instructable steps that have multiple images. (Even if you happen to be the person that created it.)

Some creators suggest that this new pay model breaks the Creative Commons license that most writers used on their projects, but Instructables says that creators don’t understand that the CC applies to everyone *except* the site where the content is published.

For my part, I’m removing my content from Instructables and will republish it elsewhere.  For those of you who would like PDFs of the projects, please drop me a line or message here, and I’ll email them to you until I can get the projects republished.

Researchers from Hungry, Germany, and the United Kingdom have presented a paper which will be published in the October issue of the Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology (FASEB) journal that suggests that the human body produces endocannabinoid compounds that resemble the active ingredient in marijuana, THC.

Not only are they similar but they also play an important role in the maintenance of good looking skin.

“Just as THC is believed to protect the marijuana plant from pathogens, our own cannabinoids may be necessary for us to maintain healthy skin,” said researcher Gerald Weissmann.

The team of scientists said “endocannabinoids” are important in regulating lipid production and may therefore be useful in the management of problems such as acne and dry skin that are associated with sebaceous gland dysfunction. They hailed the paper as the first evidence that human sebocytes use an endogenous cannabinoid signaling system for the control of lipid production and death.

“Our preclinical data encourage one to explore whether endocannabinoid system-acting agents can be exploited in the management of common skin disorders,” said Tamás Biró, a senior scientist involved in the research. “It is also suggested that these agents can be efficiently applied locally to the skin in the form of a cream.”

As well as potentially leading to new drugs that treat skin conditions ranging from acne to dry skin, and even skin-related tumors, this study could lead to a greater use of hemp oil in cosmetic products.

Cannabis has already made its mark in the cosmetics industry especially as the natural and organic markets light up. Oil derived from the hemp plant is increasingly being used for its moisturizing properties in creams, cosmetics and deodorants. While it has traditionally been used only by artisan bath and cosmetics manufacturers, large corporations like Burt’s Bees have recently introduced hemp oil products.

Beauty entrepreneurs can submit innovative beauty products and ideas for consideration to become the next $100 million beauty brand.

The annual Breakthrough in Beauty search identifies the top innovative new beauty products in the world. After evaluating thousands of promising entries, the winner of the search receives an infusion of resources to vault the winning product from obscurity and into the mainstream.

Breakthrough in Beauty invests $3-5 million to launch the product to market, with an additional $50 million in advertising to secure its success.

“Breakthrough in Beauty represents a new, more personal era in beauty retailing,” explained Marina Randolph, Founder of Breakthrough in Beauty. “By continually searching for and accepting only the very best in undiscovered concepts, incubating them and providing them with growth opportunities and guidance, we enable innovators to thrive. Their products become irreplaceable and more importantly, accessible in woman’s lives.”

This year’s search emphasizes color cosmetics products. Products that feature advanced technology as well as anti aging benefits or a natural appeal are also being sought.  A panel of judges representing experts and leaders in the beauty industry will help evaluate submissions and select the final winner.

This year’s panel will feature a renowned color chemist, a top magazine beauty editor, a nationally recognized dermatologist and a world- class beauty branding expert.   All submissions will receive valuable feedback from the expert panelists on the products, which would typically only be available at a premium cost for consultation.

Product Partners Chairman and CEO Carl Daikeler explains the five key benefits of submitting a product proposal for consideration.

“Applicants’ business proposals will be analyzed by a panel of industry experts and will receive free feedback,” he says.  “Then, the winning entry will receive funding for product development and testing, as well as advertising and marketing support to create global brand awareness. And, the winning applicant will have the opportunity for endless earning potential.”

By submitting a product proposal, the expert panel of judges will analyze the plans, provide specific feedback on strengths and weaknesses, and work with applicants to improve plans.

Up and coming beauty visionaries can submit their products until August 30, 2008.

The following links all open PDF windows:

Product Submission Form

Application Form

FAQ

Patricia Belgrave sent out emails to a targeted list of mid-scale soap manufacturers offering to let us buy out the remainder of her warehouse because she was closing shop in September.  Because the message purportedly came from within the soapers community, I didn’t do the due diligence I usually take when sourcing a vendor.

Lesson learned: Always do due diligence on your supply chain.  Never buy anything to do someone a “favor”.

After a month of placing an order, and paying their PayPal invoice, I still hadn’t received any product.  I emailed them, and the mail bounced.  I emailed their paypal email address, and asked for either tracking information or a refund, and there was no response.  I called their phone number which had been disconnected.

*facepalm*

I filed a dispute with PayPal, which was eventually decided in my favor.  Unfortunately, PayPal won’t reimburse you for claims if the company has emptied the paypal account, which this person did long before any of us with claims got through the mandatory claim time.

Lesson Learned: PayPal is not as safe as Visa or Mastercard, both of which would have reversed the charges. PayPal says “Yeah, sorry to hear that. Sucks to be you.” I need to find a new payment processor for the SoapyHollow shopping cart.

So, to save other from suffering the same sort of loss, and the embarrassment of getting scammed, I give you all of the information on these folks that I can find.

Doing business as; Wholesalershub

Also doing business as: EssentialsbyShishas

Also doing business as:: The Upper Room Bath & Body Basics

(Addresses, emails, phone numbers after the cut.)

shishas1@aol.com
PO Box 5003
Brookfield, Connecticut 06804

Patricia A Hosten; dba Patricia Belgrave
NewScents101@aol.com
5 Carlton Street
Danbury, CT 06811 US
+1.8888971066

Other email aliases:

• neworders01@aol.com
• servicedesk@wholesalershub.com
• servicedesk@essentialsbyshishas.com

For the record, yes I have filed a complaint with the FTC and the CT Attorney General. Mail/Wire fraud is a big no-no, and the law does not take kindly to people who commit felonies.

Jerome Chevalier, the former head of regulatory affairs for L’Oreal, claims that he was harassed and ultimately dismissed by L’Oreal USA after he complained about the company’s allegedly unlawful activities. According to Chevalier, products from the company’s Maybelline range containing dibutyl phthalate were being sold in South America, where the ingredient is banned. (Note that the US hasn’t banned it, nor has the FDA banned most of the other dangerous chemicals in American mass-market cosmetics. )

In addition, he claims that the company exported a hydroflourocarbon compound known as 152a to European markets – a move which was against its environmental policies. His suit also claims that the company’s ‘100 percent Pureology’ range labeled as vegan in fact contains a number of animal-derived ingredients.

After bringing these alleged discrepancies to the attention of the company’s management he claims he suffered harassment and was treated as a persona non grata.

In addition, the lawsuit details a final incident occurring shortly before Chevalier was dismissed where he objected to the use of the preservative Kathon CG (INCI names: Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone) at unlawfully high levels in products sold in Europe.

According to the EU Cosmetics Directive the substance can be used as a preservative as long as it doesn’t exceed 0.1 per cent. Chevalier was fired from the company in August 2007 and the lawsuit is claiming wrongful dismissal. In addition, the lawsuit claims that Chevalier was discriminated against because he is French, and that other French colleagues at L’Oreal USA were also harassed or given alternative positions in France.

In a statement L’Oreal USA said it has investigated the complaint and ‘unequivocally denies’ the allegations. Although the company does not comment on ongoing litigation it said it intends to ‘vigorously defend itself in this lawsuit’.

The company went on to assure the safety of all L’Oreal products.

“All the products marketed by the L’Oréal Group are in full compliance with FDA regulations as well as the European Union Cosmetic Directive and the requirements for safety in the more than 130 countries where its products are sold,” it said in the statement.

Chevalier and his lawyer refused to comment on the case.

The Discussion Draft of the Food and Drug Administration Globalization Act of 2008, introduced by US Representatives John Dingell (D-MI), Frank Pallone, Jr. (D-NJ 6th) and Bart Stupak (D-MI) is poised to radically change and possibly destroy the boutique bath and cosmetics industry.

It is important that consumers be protected, however the current proposals don’t do anything to solve problems like the ones I talked about here. They don’t address the thousands of known carcinogens that are in cosmetics produced by large conglomerate corporations . They don’t propose a budget to enforce the regulations that are already on the books.  They, in fact, do almost nothing to protect the consumer.

What they *do* is require is that anyone who wants to make soap or cosmetics pay a “registration fee” between $2,000 and $12,000 dollars annually. Additional registration fees are applied for those that import anything used in manufacturing, such as oils, fragrances or essential oils and hydrosols. The fees are subject to go up, as they’re a discretionary budget item, rather than a fixed cost item.  There is no difference in the fee structure between Palmolive and a hobbyist who sells her products at the church bazaar.

This legislation will require that every manufacturer have access to legal council that specializes in regulation compliance. As those attorneys generally come with $500 an hour price tags, the cost of translating the legislation will be enough to push most small companies out of business.

The legislation will require manufacturing facilities that are out of the reach of any company under a $10 million market cap. Laboratory and archival requirements add significant cost barriers to entry level or small businesses.

For those who practice aromatherapy using essential oils, the barrier is significantly higher because of those products will be classified as  “drugs”, which requires manufacturing facilities like those of the companies that produce insulin or other pharmaceuticals.  Micron level filtration is completely out of the reach of most soapmakers. And frankly, it’s an absurd requirement.  Nobody has ever died from dusty soap.

The legislation is well intended. Consumers do deserve to be protected. But *this* legislation is fails to consider small businesses, is completely unfunded, generates an extraordinary amount of required paperwork, and will dramatically decrease consumer options, as they’ll be left with virtually nothing but the petrochemical options offered by major cosmetic companies.

Fortunately, this bill is still in committee, and can be modified before it’s presented on the floor of Congress.  If you agree that the bill should have some provision to scale fees and requirements to meet business size, please take a few minutes to contact The House Committee on Energy and Commerce.

As well as producing, marketing and selling her soap, Elizabeth has also launched her own fragrance oil line, supplying other soapers and cosmetic companies, and Longcroft Soaperie has gotten big enough that she’s now got new digs overlooking the moors.  And if that weren’t enough, she’s also raising two kids, a host of critters, and maintaining an ancient farmstead as old as the heather.  So, a big thanks to Elizabeth for taking the time to answer a few questions for us.

I started out making and selling bath salts. From there I got into balms and butters which eventually led me into soap making. Since I already had an established cosmetics business, selling soap seemed like the next logical step – and it was. I have since scaled back on all of my products and make soaps and lip balms only.

The first selling I ever did was at a home-party hosted by my lovely sister-in-law. It was a big success for me at that time, and I started getting quite a few phone orders. I decided to try farmers’ markets, too, and those were a lot of fun. I used to do three a month, but now I only support one market.

Definitely the internet. Since getting a website in 2004, things have really taken off for me. It’s lead to interest from the press as well as some lucrative wholesale accounts.

‘Unmoderated’ craft fairs have always been a disaster for me. While my products are reasonably priced, I can’t compete with cheap toiletries imported from China. Before doing any craft fair or market, I always make sure that the organizers are strict about the products being sold. If the organizers don’t insist on all of the products being hand-made, I don’t attend.

I used to have a huge line of products, but I’ve cut way back due to time constraints. When deciding what to cut, I thought a lot about what I actually use – soap and lip balm. So now that’s all I make.

I try to pay attention to what’s selling, and there are some items (like cardamom soap) that are sold seasonally. I keep a basic line of about eight soaps and then add limited editions as needed.

Oh yes. Oil cleansers. I’ve been using the oil cleansing method for a couple of years, and am beyond pleased with the results, however, trying to talk my customers into using oil to clean their skin just didn’t work out. It was frustrating, because I knew they’d love it if they tried it, but I just didn’t have the ability to sell it. So my main question now is ‘will this be easy to sell’. If it isn’t, I don’t bother with it.

Oil Cleansing?  Like unto what the Romans used?  Tell us a little about it.

Ooh!  I was hoping you’d ask.  Oil cleansing is where you massage vegetable (or seed) oil onto your face to clean it.  The principle is the old chemistry of ‘like dissolves like’, and it works really well.  An effective oil cleanser will contain a base of castor oil, as it’s the most cleansing of all of the oils.  In that, you can add different oils depending on your skin type — or even your skin’s mood.  I know my skin is different from day to day and week to week, so it’s great to be able to mix something up to suit the moment.

A great recipe for normal to dry skin is:
50% Castor
25% Olive
25% Avocado

To use the cleanser, you wet your face with warm water and massage a small amount of oil into your skin.  I use less than a dime sized drop.  The massage is important, so use circular motions and never abuse the skin.  Let the oil sit on your skin for about 10 minutes and then place a warm wet cloth over your face to sort of steam the skin.  You can use the same cloth to remove the oil by gently wiping it away.

Avoid the temptation to dig at your skin with the cloth, and don’t rinse.  You’ll notice cleaner, clearer, glowing skin after the first use.

Q: Tell us about the genesis of your fragrance company.  What factors moved you towards creating your own line of fragrance oils?

There was a real gap in the UK market. When I first started out making bath salts, I couldn’t find quality fragrances. I began working directly with a manufacturer who helped me develop a few exclusive fragrances, and the products I made the new scents sold well.

Oh, by nose only! I am not a chemist. But I do have a decent sense of smell.

It’s a warehouse for storing the raw materials I sell through gracefruit.com. Nothing exciting, I’m afraid.

Complying with EU legislation. There is a lot of it. We have such strict laws here. For instance, every product we sell has to have its formulation assessed and approved by a cosmetic chemist. The process can be daunting. (Editorial note: Regulations in the US are about to become even more restrictive than the EU restrictions.  Look for an article about these regulations soon.)

Keeping up with all of the micro-soaperies opening every day. There is a lot of competition that wasn’t there a year ago.

Nothing for Longcroft, but I’ve recently begun working with a large medical-supplies manufacturer. Their goal is to get into the cosmetics market, and I’ve been doing some formulating for them. With a little luck, there will be a new line of balms on the supermarket shelves soon.

Elizabeth, that’s great news, I can’t wait to see what’s coming out of your formulations lab!  Thanks so much for taking the time to chat with Soapy Hollow and it’s readers.   We’ve been talking to Elizabeth Carnahan from Longcroft Soaperies, who offers a limited edition of her soaps and balms here, and operates Gracefruit.com which offers fragrance oils and raw materials.

Let’s take a look at some of those products, shall we?

• Jason’s “Pure, Natural & Organic” liquid soaps, body washes and shampoos are made with  Myreth Sulfate Sodium. To delve into the chemistry for a minute, making Myreth Sulfate Sodium requires ethoxylating a conventional non-organic fatty chain with the petrochemical Ethylene Oxide, which produces caricinogenic 1,4-Dioxane as a contaminant.

• The major cleansing ingredient in Avalon “Organics” soaps, body washes and shampoos, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, contains conventional non-organic agricultural material combined with Amdiopropyl Betaine.

• Nature’s Gate “Organics” main cleansers are Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (ethoxylated) and Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

• Kiss My Face “Obsessively Organic” cleansers are Olefin Sulfonate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

• Juice “Organics”, Giovanni “Organic Cosmetics”, Head “Organics”, Desert Essence “Organics”, and Ikove “Organic” all use Cocamdiopropyl Betaine as a main cleansing ingredient and no cleansers made from certified organic material.

Just as milk producers hopped on the “no hormones” bandwagon, cosmetics corporations have hopped on the “organic” wagon.  Except instead of actually getting on the wagon and producing healthy, non toxic, organic products, what they’ve done is just painted the organic wagon on the side of their petrochemical truck and called it a day.

But you can do something about it.  You can buy natural products from companies like mine, like Dr. Bronner, like Burt’s Bees, like the thousands of small market cap companies who actually care about our customers, our products and our planet.

Educate yourself about the products on American shelves, most of which contain ingredients that have been banned in most of the world as carcinogens.  Learn to say no to body and food products manufactured in countries where there are no safety standards, like China.  Read the ingredient label.  If you can’t pronounce the majority of ingredients, you probably don’t want to put it on your skin.

And remember; marketing and advertising people get paid to lie.  It’s their job, it’s what they do.  Just because something says “Organic” on the marketing materials, doesn’t mean it’s actually a healthy or organic product.  Anything where the first or second ingredient is a sulfate or other chemical surfactant, then the product you’re holding is not organic in any sense of the word.